Big Easy Eats

Dining in New Orleans: An Essay

2009-09-08T10:22:00.000-07:00

New Orleans is world famous as a dining destination. The reasons are many. Sheer number is an impressive factor. There are over twelve hundred restaurants in the New Orleans metro area and climbing. While the national franchises are represented they do not dominate the palette of culinary choices. New Orleans is a cultural melting pot and that cultural diversity is showcased on the local menu. The menu also varies from no prices at all, resulting in as much as a four hundred dollar per person tab, to a very reasonable but delicious five dollar plate lunch. The preponderance of the New Orleans’ gastronomic offerings is in the ten to fifteen dollar entrée category. Reviewing a variety of restaurants focusing on the ten to fifteen dollar per entrée price point provides the best overall portrait of dining in New Orleans.

Creole cuisine is the heart of the New Orleans experience. It is a remarkable blend of French, African, Native American, and Spanish cultural cooking. The Gumbo Shop located at St. Peter and Chartres Street is a fine example of Creole food and hospitality. Enjoy the atmosphere of one of the French Quarter’s most romantic courtyards. The centerpiece of any visit to The Gumbo Shop is one of three savory Gumbos; a seafood recipe, the traditional Acadian combination of chicken and andouille sausage, and the more unusual gumbo z’herbes made from various greens. The name Gumbo is the French interpretation of the African word for okra. Complimentary entrées would include Jambalaya, Red Beans and Rice, or Alligator Sauce Piquant. Finishing a Creole meal should involve a buttery bread pudding of some sort.

New Orleans has a rich Italian heritage. There is only one place in the world with a larger population of Sicilians, Sicily. One of the outstanding establishments in this genre is Vincent’s on St. Charles near the end of Carrollton. The best start to a meal at Vincent’s is the Corn, Crab Bisque served in a bread bowl. Many of the chef intensive dishes like Osso Buco, Veal Parmesan, and Bracialoni are masterfully crafted and presented. Bracialoni is a confounding dish made by stuffing a top round with bacon, artichoke hearts, garlic and parmesan, baking it just right and covering the beef with a perfect red sauce. Requesting some Tira Mi Su and an Espresso or Cappuccino to usher in the finale, and an evening in this, somewhat cramped, Italian dining room is a delicious memory.

New Orleans’ proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and Lake Pontchartrain provides local chefs with a wealth of the finest shrimp, oysters, and crab on earth. Inland waterways team with catfish and crawfish which add to this delectable collection of savory possibilities. There are several excellent seafood platters around the city. Deanie’s Seafood Market and Restaurant in Bucktown features one of these enormous platters, overflowing with shrimp, oysters, catfish and french fries. Deanie’s is also a great spot to try Barbequed Shrimp and Crawfish Etouffee. The restaurant was showcased on The Food Network and specifically documented the process for making huge vats of this Acadian country favorite, etouffee.

The final major category in the cuisine of New Orleans is Southern style cooking. Playing host to most of the comfort foods, fried chicken rules the roost. The Food Network named Willie Mae’s Scotch House the best fried chicken in America. Willie Mae’s is a Mid City eatery run by the granddaughter of the founder. Diners can fill up on the award winning chicken, pork chops, or smothered veal. The scrumptious side dishes include red beans, butter beans, potato salad and greens. The small dining room promotes neighborly interaction and a line out the door.

There are two sandwiches peppered through the menus of The Big Easy that must not be ignored in closing. The Muffaleta is a large, round, cold cut sandwich featuring a unique olive salad throughout. And the Po-Boy, a french bread encased staple that originally was served to hobos at the back doors of local cafes. Charitable chefs would put a small portion of meat or leftovers on a piece of the bread and give to those in need. Thus the name Po-Boy has stuck with the sandwich. The Ye Old College Inn on Carrollton reins “Best of Show” in the New Orleans Po-Boy festival for their Fried Green Tomato and Shrimp Remoulade masterpiece. Great debate could ensue over the best Roast Beef Po-Boy or any other menu item at the vast buffet that is New Orleans at its finest. Bon Appétit!

The Shed BBQ, Ocean Springs MS

2008-10-06T14:55:00.000-07:00

I can't believe it's been a year since we have journaled our culinary expeditions. This journey was totally worth it. The Shed is about an hour and a half drive from New Orleans (I10 East to Exit 57 in Mississippi). The atmosphere is every bit as "junky" as you hope it will be. That's because owners Brad and Brook went dumpster diving for all the furniture and decor. . . if I'm lyin' - I'm dyin'. There is a plethora of philosophical profundity scattered around the walls and ceiling too. The staff is bright and full of fun. The food was really excellent. I'm not a big BBQ fan, so when I rave about smoky grub it has to be lean, with a truly unique balance of sweet, spicy, and smoky. We rolled in with a party of four, and had smoked sausage, pulled pork, brisket, and baby back ribs. The array of sides included cole slaw, baked potato salad, baked beans, and macaroni salad. Your meal is served in a to-go box, but we didn't need ours - whew! With soft drinks the total for four was $73 including a good tip. Next time we'll go for the evening and take in the live tunes. Don't miss this treasure.

The Shed
7501 HWY 57
Ocean Springs, MS 39565

Jacques-Imos, New Orleans LA

2007-10-12T23:30:00.000-07:00

Big thanks to my friends Larry and Candy for treating tonight! Once again we were blessed with the company of a missionary to Thailand, who happens to be from Canada. What an interesting lens through which to see the Big Easy. This is my third visit to Jacques-Imos and I have yet to be "underwhelmed." Jacques was outside greeting his guests and really enjoying it, with laughter and smiles in abundance. Jacques-Imos is one of a few restaurants in the Crescent City that is more cajun than creole. Our reservation (available to parties of five or more) had us seated in less than five minutes in the building next door, a spot with larger table settings. I missed the walk through the spotless kitchen that has been a highlight of previous visits. The main dining room is separated from the bar and front door by the kitchen, no kidding! For a party of two you could choose to dine outside in the back of Jacques's little truck. I love dining adventure. The service is always knowledgeable and genuinely friendly. Tonight we had too many servers assigned to our table, or something, because they doubled up on most of their inquiries. Not a big deal and we got lots of attention.

This adventure started with crab cakes and fried grits - fantastic! If you're open to new ideas don't miss the Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake. I had crawfish etouffe; a crawfish stew served over rice. Donna, our guest from afar, had the Vegetable Delight (I think that was the name) it looked great. I had a bite of Claire's stuffed pork chop and it was excellent. I normally get the Cajun Bouillabaisse because it is a great example of culinary creativity. If you don't like your food to look back at you this dish could be problematic. It is a delicious, hearty, bayou in a bowl, experience. Jacques-Imos is great food in a fun environment, that's kid friendly and won't break the bank. This is a must try for Big Easy Eats!

Jacques-Imos
(link is NYC location)
8324 Oak St
New Orleans, LA 70118
504) 861-0886

The Praline Connection, New Orleans LA

2007-10-08T14:25:00.000-07:00

A day of sightseeing with a family who are missionaries in Thailand was hampered by heavy rain. My first thought was Bubba Gumps, the kids would like it, but it was too far to walk in the downpour. My second idea was Deanie's in Bucktown, not open on Mondays, neither was R&O's and Landry's on the Lake was also closed. The only NOLA native in the car suggested The Praline Connection on Frenchman Street. It turned out to be a great spot to sample Big East Eats. We arrived early enough to seat twelve people. The menu was loaded with local favorites and soul food standouts. The servers are dressed in black and white with black fedoras. They were all very friendly, but definitely not in a hurry. There are several tables set for large parties if you end up playing tour guide.

We passed around some fried alligator sausage and catfish bites to prime the palate. Since it was Monday most of our party had the Red Beans and Rice. It comes with a choice of smoked sausage, chicken livers, fried or stewed chicken, meatloaf, turkey necks or wings, or a smothered pork chop. My pastor chose the chicken livers, everyone else got sausage. I had the stuffed peppers and they were great. The sides were very authentic, and I'm sure they were prepared to perfection, but I didn't like the things I tried. I had the mustard greens and macaroni and cheese. The mustard greens were too strong for me and the macaroni and cheese tasted like it had vinegar in it. The praline I had to finish the fare was the best I have ever had tasted. So, the only thing keeping this eatery from an overwhelming rating was the slow service. Check it out!

The Praline Connection
542 Frenchmen Street
New Orleans, LA 70116
(504) 943-3934

eat new orleans, New Orleans, LA

2007-10-05T21:30:00.000-07:00

After our "pleasant meal" at The Port of Call we took a long walk around the French Quarter. Alice and Megan were dress shopping (ho-hum). On the way back to the car we came across this great find: eat new orleans. Our previous 1/2 lb. burger and jumbo baked potato adventure loomed large. However, the charm of this, almost out of the way (Dumaine & Dauphine), dining room seduced us into coffee and dessert. The atmosphere is light and clean with soft colors and intelligent music. Out server was genuine, accommodating, and attentive.

We passed around a Creme Brulee and a Chocolate Cake. Both were absolutely incredible. The Creme Brulee was smooth and rich without being too sweet. The Chocolate Cake was "manly", by that I mean it's dense and robust with a fudge frosting. It definitely holds the plate down. It's not for sissies if you know what I mean, and by now I'm sure you do.

The menu is divided into three serving times: Day (tue-fri 11-2); Night (tue-sat 5:30 -10); and Brunch served Saturday and Sunday from 9 to 2. The palette of eclectic, wholesome, and vegetarian dishes has ensured our return with offerings like a Blue Cheese and Fig Torte, Lox and Bagel, Crawfish Pie, Butterbeans and Shrimp, Flatiron Steak, and Grits and Grillades. We can't wait to drop in and try those Big Easy Eats.

eat new orleans
900 Dumaine Street
New Orleans, LA 70116
(504) 522-7222

The Port of Call, New Orleans, LA

2007-10-05T20:01:00.000-07:00

This is actually our second visit to The Port of Call. We arrived early each time, so we did not experience the long wait out on Esplanade Avenue. This beef bistro is best known for the hand packed 1/2 lb. burgers. Steak and burgers dominate the limited menu. The atmosphere is unique; very much like an old ship's galley. A very old ship's galley, which is cool, if it's clean. The bathrooms are disgusting, and that's unnecessary no matter how authentically historic the theme.

The food is simply good. The dinner salad had a boring bed of lettuce but an outstanding bleu cheese dressing. The burgers come with a hearty baked potato. These burgers are big, thick, juicy and delicious. The buns are too small to dress properly, and too light, wonder bread like, to stand up to a mammoth burger. The service is not at all memorable.

This NOLA culinary landmark is fun, but not legendary in our book.

Port of Call
838 Esplanade Ave
New Orleans, LA 70116
(504) 522-8450

The Camellia Grill - New Orleans, LA

2007-08-10T21:40:00.000-07:00

I had heard of The Camellia Grill many times. If you are interested in Big Easy Eats someone will recommend this restaurant. My friend Lenny, the Yat, told me that when Jimmy Buffet was living in the French Quarter he was enjoying the incredible hand packed, flat grilled cheesburger and wrote the hit song "Cheeseburger in Paradise." While it doesn't de-throne Bulldog's Pub, or even the cheeseburger at the Port of Call, it is a great burger. Alice and I also shared a western omlette solely because our enthusiastic server suggested it. It was a good omlette - except - the ham in it was really salty. It comes with outstanding french fries. The entire restaurant is a lunch counter style set-up, which is fun. All the cooking goes on just a few feet away and the smell is intoxicating. Then, there is the pie. WOW! Chocolate pecan pie warmed on the griddle with clarified butter. They do this right alongside the burgers, but I couldn't detect any hint of cheeseburger in paradise. This pie is worth crawling on your hands and knees down South Carrolton. Actually that might be easier than finding parking. Go experience this New Orleans standout.

The Camellia Grill
626 S Carrollton Ave
New Orleans, LA 70118
(504) 866-9573

Domilise's - Uptown New Orleans, LA

2007-08-09T22:55:00.000-07:00

This was a trip back in time with my friend the "Yat." Lenny's dad had a barber shop on Magazine Street for over fifty years. He used to send Lenny on his bicycle over to Domilise's to get some sandwiches. Today we had classic roast beef po-boys and a Barq's root beer. The bread was perfect, the beef was a little dry. I ordered mine with light gravy which turned out to be a mistake. "Dressed" includes lettuce, tomato, mayo, and creole mustard. Lenny said they used to use cabbage instead of lettuce, that would have been a bit more interesting. It was not the best po-boy I've had but the experience and atmosphere was very "Yat." There is a lot of signed Archie, Peyton, and Eli Manning memorabilia because they live a couple blocks away. This is an uptown treasure, tasty and intriguing.

Domilise's
5240 Annunciation St.
New Orleans, LA 70115
504-899-9126

Hillbilly BBQ - River Ridge, LA

2007-08-07T19:04:00.000-07:00

I'm not a big BBQ fan. For me to recommend a smokehouse is a big deal. Kelly runs a good show here with really nice, lean, very smoky, beef, pork, chicken, alligator sausage, and boudin. We did a staff Birthday lunch and most of us got the Tuesday special. The Smoky Mountain Burger is truly a smoked burger, no bottled hickory in this bad-boy. It ends up a little dry, but it's amazingly smoky. It comes with your choice of a spicy potato salad, baked potato, great baked beans, or cole slaw for 6.95. The hobo potatoes are worth the extra scratch. The dine in atmosphere is simple but clean. Kelly's smile is the focal point. Check out this Kentucky smokehouse.

Hillbilly BBQ
208 Tullulah Ave
River Ridge, LA
(504) 738-1508